Why It Works
- Full wheat flour gives the streusel a graham cracker–like style.
- Anise seed and Chinese language language five-spice powder complement rhubarb, coaxing out further of its pure aroma, whereas cinnamon gives earthy depth.
- Tapioca starch varieties a light-weight, clear gel that retains the filling gooey and thick, in no way gloppy.
- The sweet and complex aroma of elderflower helps open up the floral notes in rhubarb.
- Baking in phases creates the right ratio of gooey filling and tender fruit.
- Baking soda mellows the sharp acidity of rhubarb, lessening its usually chalky mouthfeel.
Rhubarb seems to divide folks alongside strains of affection and hate, nonetheless I often suspect the haters may need as quickly as been traumatized by a bowlful of overcooked rhubarb mush. However even when it’s fully cooked, rhubarb’s extreme ranges of oxalic acid can usually create a tooth-coating chalkiness that will go away a foul type in anyone’s mouth.
Oxalic acid is similar wrongdoer behind the dreaded sensation of “spinach tooth” after a salad, and it exists at toxic ranges in rhubarb leaves, so it is best to positively toss these out! The extreme nonetheless tolerable stage inside the rhubarb itself leads some bakers to bury their rhubarb in sugar, which makes for a painfully sweet/tart concoction.
With all these pitfalls, it’s no shock some persons are on the fence about (or outright hostile to) rhubarb, nonetheless thankfully these points can all be solved with science and, possibly, a splash of artistry in relation to seasoning. And for these of us who already love rhubarb? These strategies will take that keenness to the next stage.
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Making the Streusel Topping
The first step is to make the streusel topping, which is what makes a crisp a crisp. In distinction with a pie dough, streusels are way more forgiving, making it easy to swap one recipe for another. So whenever you’ve acquired an earlier family favorite, be blissful to utilize that as an alternative. Whereas there’s a “grasp system” in my cookbook for making and customizing streusel for any recipe, that’s the explicit combo I want to pair with rhubarb.
It’s a combination of brown sugar, full wheat flour, and rolled oats, with cinnamon, anise seeds, and Chinese language language five-spice powder. Plus butter—quite a few butter—to complement the in some other case lean fruit filling.
Full wheat flour gives the topping an extra-crispy type of texture, combining with the brown sugar and cinnamon to create a graham cracker–like style, however when you haven’t any available, all-purpose will do. If you’re gluten-free, merely seize your favorite APF-style combine.
The aroma of anise seeds (along with the echoes of fennel and star anise inside the five-spice powder) works wonders with rhubarb, coaxing out further of its naturally herbaceous style with out overpowering its delicate type—an idea I picked up from actually one in every of my favorite books, The Style Thesaurus.
Like together with a pinch of nutmeg to béchamel, somewhat little bit of flooring cloves to banana bread, or a splash of coriander to my blueberry pie, using this spice combo isn’t about making the spices stand out; it’s about underscoring the precept attraction, in some way making the rhubarb seem rhubarb-ier. If you like, the streusel might be made prematurely—it’s going to maintain for a few week inside the fridge or a few months inside the freezer.
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Making the Rhubarb Filling
If you’ve be taught up on my recreation plan for making the best cherry pie, my system for thickening a rhubarb crisp seems to be like in regards to the similar on paper, although the technique itself differs in a large method (further on that in a bit).
Start with the burden of the prepared rhubarb—on this case, 44 ounces—then add 5.5% tapioca starch and 25% sugar. (This math is all so much less complicated whenever you work in metric objects, by one of the best ways.) The numbers in my recipe are rounded for consolation, nonetheless the odds are helpful to know if you need to scale a batch up or down relying in your farmers market haul.
Now, right here is the place points differ from my methodology for pie. The distinctive format of a crisp permits me to bake the fruit in phases, as an alternative of tossing all of the issues collectively, topping it with streusel, and baking it .
I start by combining half of the rhubarb with the sugar and starch, plus two ounces of elderflower liqueur, equal to St-Germain. When you have no available, it is best to make the most of water or a further two ounces of fruit (rhubarb is about 90% water), nonetheless the fragile floral aroma of elderflower goes a fantastic distance in direction of opening up the subtleties of rhubarb.
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Change the mix to a seven- by 11-inch baking dish. (A deep-dish nine-inch pie pan will work as correctly, nonetheless I favor the rectangular type to maximise flooring area for the streusel afterward.)
Cowl the dish tightly in foil, and bake it until juicy. This takes about half-hour in a 400°F (200°C) oven, although the time can vary pretty a bit counting on the scale and supplies of your baking dish, so take a look at on the fruit a little bit of early whenever you’re using a metal dish.
Neutralizing Rhubarb’s Acidity
As quickly because the rhubarb has given up its juices, pull it from the oven and stir in 1 / 4 teaspoon of baking soda using a heat-resistant spatula. It’s not ample to completely neutralize the rhubarb’s acidity, nonetheless it really takes off the sharper edges—a really helpful trick everytime you’re working with hothouse rhubarb, which can type notably bitter. Spinach tooth, begone!
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Preserve stirring until the fizz dies down to ensure no pockets of baking soda keep unactivated, then pour the syrupy rhubarb over the remaining rhubarb. Fold gently to combine, then return to the baking dish.
Assembling and Baking the Crisp
Baking in phases produces numerous textures inside the accomplished crisp, with creamy objects of rhubarb melting proper right into a gooey filling alongside large chunks of firmer fruit. Prime it off with the prepared streusel, smashing each handful into a thin sheet.
It might look a bit of bizarre, nonetheless this retains smaller crumbles of streusel from falling down between the objects of fruit and sinking into the filling; the “tiles” preserve perched on excessive, the place they are going to bake up good and crisp.
When all the factor’s lined, return it to the oven, and bake until bubbling-hot even inside the very middle, about half-hour further.
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This ensures the tapioca starch can do its thang. If it isn’t bubbling-hot, the filling won’t thicken as a result of it should, so let that be your cue moderately than any strict timetable.
As soon as extra, the exact measurement, type, depth, and supplies of your baking dish will play a limiteless place in how prolonged this course of will take. Larger pans, or these product of metal, would require a lot much less time inside the oven, whereas smaller or deeper pans may require pretty a bit further. You presumably can fully bake with irrespective of type of pan you may need available; merely let your eyes be your info, moderately than a clock.
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Let the finished crisp cool as a minimum half-hour sooner than serving, as it’s going to possible be soupy and dangerously scorching at first. As a result of it cools to a safer temperature, the crisp will thicken up correctly, reaching what I take into consideration its ideally suited consistency at about 80°F (27°C), at which degree it’s going to possible be saucy and warmth.
If you like, serve with scoops of vanilla ice cream or a dollop of your favorite whipped cream—there’s a grasp put up of all my whipped cream recipes whenever you need some ideas.
April 2017
Rhubarb Crisp Recipe
Prepare dinner dinner Mode
(Preserve show awake)
For the Topping:
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5 ounces mild brown sugar (about 2/3 cup, packed; 140g)
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3 3/4 ounces full wheat flour (about 3/4 cup, spooned; 105g)
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4 ounces old skool rolled oats (about 1 1/3 cups; 115g)
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1 1/2 teaspoons flooring cinnamon
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1 teaspoon full anise seeds (non-compulsory)
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1 teaspoon Chinese language language five-spice powder
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1/4 teaspoon (1g) Diamond Crystal kosher salt; for desk salt, use half as so much by amount or use the similar weight
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5 ounces unsalted butter (10 tablespoons; 140g), easy nonetheless cool, about 68°F (20°C)
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5 ounces raw pecan objects (about 1 cup; 140g)
For the Filling:
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2 3/4 kilos rhubarbscale back into 3/4-inch objects (about 11 cups; 1.25kg), from spherical eighteen 24-inch stalks (3 kilos; 1.35kg)
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10 1/2 ounces sugar (about 1 1/2 cups; 300g)
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2 1/2 ounces tapioca flour (about 2/3 cup; 75g), equal to Bob’s Crimson Mill
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2 ounces elderflower liqueur or water (1/4 cup; 55g)
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3/4 teaspoon (3g) Diamond Crystal kosher salt; for desk salt, use half as so much by amount or use the similar weight
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1/4 teaspoon baking soda
To Serve (non-compulsory):
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1 recipe strawberry whipped cream or brown sugar whipped cream
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For the Topping: Combine brown sugar, full wheat flour, rolled oats, cinnamon, anise seed (if using), five-spice powder, salt, and butter inside the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment. Mix on low tempo to form a thick dough, about 5 minutes. Alternatively, this can be carried out by hand. Toss in pecans, swap to a zip-top bag, and refrigerate until needed, as a lot as 1 month.
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For the Filling: Modify oven rack to lower-middle place and preheat to 400°F (205°C). Within the similar bowl from the stand mixer (no wish to scrub), combine half the prepared rhubarb (about 5 1/2 cups; 22 ounces; 620g), sugar, tapioca flour, elderflower liqueur or water, and salt with a flexible spatula; the mix might be terribly dry. Change to a 7- by 11-inch baking dish or 9-inch deep-dish pie pan, sprinkling any remaining sugar/starch on excessive, and cover with foil. Place on a foil- or parchment-lined half-sheet pan and bake until rhubarb is wilted and juicy, about half-hour. Within the meantime, swap remaining fruit to the similar bowl.
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To Finish: Take away baking dish from oven, discard foil, and sprinkle with baking soda. Stir fastidiously with a heat-resistant spatula until juices begin to fizz. Pour over remaining rhubarb and fold to combine, then return to baking dish. Prime with handfuls of prepared streusel, flattening each addition into a thin sheet to achieve even safety. Proceed baking until crisp is effervescent inside the very center, about 35 minutes further. (The time will vary dramatically counting on the exact dimensions and supplies of your baking dish.)
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Cool as a minimum half-hour sooner than serving, as a result of the filling might be dangerously scorching and really runny at first. The crisp will thicken as a result of it cools to room temperature. If you like, serve à la mode or with dollops of strawberry or brown sugar whipped cream. Wrapped in foil, the crisp will maintain 3 days at room temperature.
Specific Gear
7- by 11-inch glass, ceramic, or stoneware baking dish or 9-inch deep-dish pie pan; stand mixer with paddle attachment; digital thermometer; rimmed baking sheet
Notes
On account of disparate sourcing practices, tapioca starch manufactured exterior the US is also derived from sago, which has completely completely different gelling properties from true tapioca (cassava). Seek for producers that time out cassava by title; my favorite is Bob’s Crimson Mill, on the market inside the baking aisle of most supermarkets or on-line.
Make-Ahead and Storage
Wrapped in foil, the crisp will maintain 3 days at room temperature.